Monday 3 November 2014

Missebo: Beninese market where Nigerians buy, sell okrika

Second-hand clothes, also known as okrika, has gained prominence among Nigerians, and even beyond, no thanks to the deplorable economic situation in the country that has forced willy-nilly many people to buy and wear used clothes and underwear. EMMANUEL ADENIYI visited the Republique du Benin recently and Missebo market, one of the markets in the country, where Nigerian businessmen and women frequent to buy bales of used clothes which are first smuggled into Nigeria before being sold in many Nigerian towns and villages. He also writes on the lives of Nigerians resident in the country.


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With a few thousands naira, getting to Republique du Benin from Lagos through Badagry-Seme border is not difficult at all. The major bugbear, however, is the irritating sight of touts who front for Beninese police and immigration extorting money from travellers before allowing them enter the small West African country.
Getting to Missebo market, too, from Seme takes less than 30 minutes and about cfa2,000. The prevailing atmosphere in the market, which is situated right in the heart of Cotonu and very close to Tokpa river, makes one doubt whether one is in Oyingbo or Agbeni market in Lagos and Ibadan respectively.
Aside Indians, Chinese and a few other nationals of different African countries, Nigerians call the shots in the market: Igbo men and women sell used clothes, Yoruba and a few Hausas are bureau de change operators, and many Yoruba women could be seen with their wares on display.
But for used clothes and Nigerians, who have popularised the market, Missebo would have remained the market of Indians and Chinese who sell made-in-Bangkok ankara and a few Beninese petty traders. Even at that, most of buyers of these ankara and other cloths sold by the Asians come from Nigeria.
In a way, Missebo (though the clothes are sold and repacked in Tokpa market) remains the major Beninese market where bales of used clothes imported from Europe are sold, or repacked  for Nigerian markets.
Formerly Biafran market
Formerly a car park for vehicles conveying goods and travellers to Abomey – a Fon city, which at one time served as the capital of the ancient kingdom of Dahomey –  the market was said to have been renamed “Missebo” by the Beninese government.
According to Chief Samuel Moses, a prominent second-hand clothes trader in the market and a native of Abia State, who disclosed that he had spent 28 years in Cotonou, having arrived and settling down in the city in March 1986, the market used to be known as Biafran market, but was changed to Abomegah, meaning the part of the town where buses used to load to Abomey.
“My master who taught me trading came in 1960. Many of the Beninese people don’t see Ibos as Nigerians, hence the name Biafran market. It has not been easy in the last 28 years, but because I speak Egun and Fon languages as well as French, doing business here and interacting with the locals have not been challenging,” Chief Victor stressed.
He said those selling second-hand clothes also known as okrika in the market often sourced them from England, because Britons were very careful of what they put on, adding that some of the used clothes were also imported from China.
“It pains me today that China now sends used clothes to Africa. China of all countries? It shows that they are a serious people, and government is working there, because a few years ago the country couldn’t have dreamed of selling clothes to Africa,” he lamented, saying the cost of freighting a container load of bales of used clothes ranged between $5,000 and $7,000.
“Most of these clothes are still new and intact. Many of them have their labels and tags on them. Europeans, especially Britons, don’t use clothes the way Africans use their clothes. This is why many people prefer buying and wearing them.”
Commenting on the challenges faced in the country by Nigerians, he said many Benineses, just like other French-speaking African nationals, saw an average Nigerian as a criminal.
“I don’t know why they have that mindset, because their economy is heavily dependent on Nigeria’s. Sometimes when you bring out your passport, you are judged by its green cover, and you are not given any benefit of the doubt. Same situation prevails in Ivory Coast and other Francophone African countries. Most of what they hear about Nigeria is bad, however what about those things that Nigeria does right?
“Most non nationals in this country have consulate cards, but that of Nigeria is not respected. In fact, they prefer that of Burkina Faso, DR Congo and others to Nigeria’s. It is only in the Republique du Benin that West Africans are made to carry resident’s permit.
“In 1993, for instance, when Mathew Kerekou was the president, many Nigerians suffered harassment and intimidation. There were times they would invade houses inhabited by Nigerians and ask them to produce their consulate cards, failure of which would land many in prison. Many Nigerians are here without having any business here. I feel Nigerian government should put in place good structures that would discourage Nigerians from fleeing their country,” he advised.
Azeez Onifade, a port agent at Sekandji park and a native of Ede in Osun State, also attested to the highhandedness of the Beninese authority, saying many Nigerians coming to the Republique du Benin to buy goods were often arrested, while money found on them would be taken away, even having shown them their passports or identity cards.
“They must not hear anything about Nigeria or hear you speak English, you would be arrested. What is the offence of Nigeria? Besides, Nigerian embassy is not doing anything about it. The officials there are just ineffective,” he alleged.
Adelu Abeedeen, a bureau de change operator in Missebo market, who is also from Ede, Osun State, said what Nigerians were passing through could better be imagined than experienced.
 According to him, countless Nigerians are locked up in Beninese prisons for trivial offences. “In fact, some traders coming to the country to buy and sell are often arrested, and if they don’t have money to bribe the police they are hurled into prison.”
Excel Frank Ezema and Catherine Samuel, who are both natives of Abia State, and Samuel Etu, a native of Amasiri in Afikpo North Local Government Area of Ebonyi State, further narrated the ordeal of Nigerians in the country, saying many Benineses regarded Nigerians as outcasts.
“Since they don’t own television sets at home, if they see you with one, you are in trouble. If you greet them, they wouldn’t answer you. They sometimes come to the market to fight with us and break bottles,” he claimed.
Stanley Ogbonnaya and Mbaise Ogbonnaya also spoke about the difficulty often encountered before collecting resident’s permit issued by the Republique du Benin immigration, noting that to get the permit could take years, because they were fond of asking for papers they knew you would not get easily.
However, Hajia Binta Abdulazeez, who spoke with Sunday Tribune at the Nigerian embassy in Cotonou where she was waiting to meet with embassy officials on how she would sort out certain issues regarding her 20-year-old daughter’s admission to the University of Abomey-Calavi, disclosed that Nigerians were responsible for the hatred shown them by the Beninese.
 “I also come around here to buy goods. The Republique du Benin’s government issues resident’s permit to Nigerians because of the nasty things Nigerians do here. Hardly would you see a Beninese steal, but Nigerians steal and rob here.
“There is a particular hotel where almost all the prostitutes there are Nigerians. Why won’t they issue permits to foreigners who have come to destroy their country?” the mother of six and a widow, who said her husband died in 2008 in Kano, revealed, noting that she decided to bring her daughter to Cotonou to study Computer Science to avoid losing her to Boko Haram attacks.
“Rich people living in Kano who started Boko Haram crises have all taken their children abroad to study. Why wouldn’t I do the same if I know her future and life is safe in Cotonou? Besides, she would only spend three years to study the course, while it could take her up till five years in Nigeria due to persistent strike actions,” the vivacious woman added.
Nigeria’s second-hand clothes sellers
While explaining to Sunday Tribune on how they go about buying used clothes from the Republique du Benin, which are often smuggled into Nigeria, Mrs Josephine Ogundeji, said the clothes were often purchased either at Missebo or Tokpa markets, noting that bales of clothes purchased would then be conveyed to any of many vehicle parks in Cotonou to be taken to Nigeria.
“What I always do is to carry my purchase to Sekandji park where there are many souvres (drivers or crossers) who would carry them to Wobu, and from Wobu to Saki, and from Saki to Ibadan. We often pay the crosser N5,000 for every giant bale smuggled into the country, and conveying it from Cotonou to Ibadan, for instance, could take four or five days, because of customs on the way. Some traders also prefer going through Ipobe in Lagos, but that could take a long time,” she said.
Mrs Ogundeji disclosed that God had saved her several times between Badagry and Mile 2 expressway in Lagos while returning from the Republique du Benin, saying in April this year, armed robbers robbed her and okrika sellers on Badagry expressway at a point very close to the Federal Government College, Ijanikin, Lagos.
Faith Ogbonna, a native of Abia and Uzoamaka Ibe Uche from Ebonyi State also lamented the influx of people into the business. They added that the influx had dwindled their profit margin and said that trouble often given them by customs and the police was a great threat to their business.  

Seme corruption market

Seme is one of the busiest borders between Nigeria and its neighbours. It is also touted as one of the routes most banned items illegally enter Nigeria. EMMANUEL ADENIYI was at the border and witnessed a rare display of corruption by Beninese police and immigration, who station touts along checkpoints to extort money from travellers. He writes that the corrupt activities going on on the Beninese part of the border cannot, in any way, be compared with the N20 kickback oft collected by men of the Nigeria Police.


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Being a Nigerian/Beninese settlement with heavy presence of police and immigration officers of both countries, most of the oft heard stories about Seme border are on the corrupt activities of men of the Nigeria Police and immigration, but little is known about the extortion of travellers entering Republique du Benin from Nigeria.
The extortion commenced immediately I crossed the Nigeria’s part of the popular Seme border to the Republique du Benin’s, where I was greeted by crapulous, stern looking middle-aged men, also known as Kelebe by the Beninese people.
The stench of their breath was overpoweringly horrible – it reeked of tobacco. With their bloodshot eyes and icy gaze which glowered at me menacingly, a frisson of fear was sent down my spine, and my mind raced as I tried to figure out what I had done wrong.
No matter how smart you are, you can never escape them. At every checkpoint of about six police posts, you are spotted afar off by Kelebe, who obviously work for the Beninese police and immigration to extort naira from travellers, mainly Nigerians.
“D’où êtes-vous? Qui êtes-vous?” one of the men, dressed in a yellow and black spotted ankara, asked in French. He wanted to know who I was, where I was coming from and where I was heading to.
With my voice recorder on to record the conversation, I went blank, as my smattering French failed me, wondering how to communicate with him in a language that appeared tongue-twisting.
I eventually replied in English, but there was no response. I spoke to him in Yoruba, the man merely made a gesture to his colleague standing a few metres away – looking for victims to prey on – to come and see “ara won”, meaning one of them in English.
He even looked fiercer and blustered threats judging by the wave of his hand and the raging squawks of disgust his code-mixed expressions carried. I was later told he was code-mixing French, Fon and Yoruba. In fact, if looks could kill, I would be dead by the dagger his eyes threw at me.
Any person carrying a Nigerian passport, or any Nigerian traveller, as I was made to know much later, is branded “one of them” – an expression, which was said to have been coined by the Beninese locals to describe Nigerians, who wave after wave, visit or reside in the Republique du Benin.
I later realised that some of the men understood Yoruba perfectly, but often pretended not to, so as to confuse whoever  was “arrested” by them, knowing very well that the more confused their victims, the more money they would bilk out of them.
My international passport and identity card were of no use to them, and but for sheer fate, they would have seized and probably torn the passport as I heard they often did.
While all attempts to speak with the Beninese police/immigration officers at the first police post met a brick wall, as the officers looked away abandoning me to my fate, I eventually parted with a thousand naira before I was allowed to proceed on the journey, only to experience the same cycle of skullduggery at the second, third, fourth and the fifth checkpoints.
The last checkpoint, where a Kelebe spoke French all through sent me wondering whether the journey was worthwhile after all. “Vous ne pouvez pas entrer. Pour participer, apporter N2,000, ou mieux encore retourner d’où vous venez,” the man had said.
A Nigerian female student, who would not disclose her name and school, had assisted to interpret what he said in French. She, too, had parted with some money, even though she brought out her identity card and showed it to them. The Kelebe-burden, according to her, had said in French that I should go back to wherever I was coming from if I was unwilling to pay him N2,000. The rest is history.
Nigerian Embassy in Cotonou
At the Nigerian Embassy in Cotonou visited by this reporter to get the side of the embassy concerning the complaints and allegations of Nigerians residing in the country, the atmosphere that hovered over the palatial compound of the embassy was not friendly at all.
From the attitude of the gateman, who told this reporter brusquely that the staff of the embassy were on break, the complaints of most of the people who spoke with Sunday Tribune and their allegation of neglect by the embassy appeared real, because even the two Beninese soldiers guarding the embassy showed conviviality in their interaction with this reporter than the embassy officials whose nonchalance (superciliousness?) blinded them to the maltreatment of their countrymen.
This reporter was later attended to by a Fehintola Adebowale, one of the embassy staff. His frigidity belied every air of importance and concern that he put up as he took this reporter to his office refusing to grant interview. He merely asked him to write down his questions and contact, promising to reply to them the following week, which he never did.
Returning home
Determined not to fester the Seme corruption market while departing the Republique du Benin by not giving a dime to anybody at the border, the Kelebe men, whose hearts of steel are/were impervious to feelings and my cry of not having enough to transport myself back home, still succeeded in extorting money from me and depleted my transport budget, which almost left me stranded on the streets of Lagos. Even a fly cannot escape them unnoticed.
Nevertheless, stepping my feet on the Nigerian soil bestowed on me a sense of overwhelming peace and calmness, though horrified by my experience at the hands of Seme touts, tales of highhandedness of the Beninese police and immigration against Nigerians in the country, and ultimately the unfriendly posture of the Nigerian Embassy in the Republic de Benin.
Anyway, one is happy to be back at home, where there is no fear of Kelebe extortion or harassment of any kind.